Critic's Picks

What We're Eating Now: February 2018

This month’s favorites: slices of towering layer cake, a melee of flavors from a vegan grain bowl, and a dram of bourbon.

By Nosh Pit Staff February 1, 2018 Published in the February 2018 issue of Seattle Met

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Image: Sarah Flotard

Colossal Cake Slices

An old Airstream—unassuming amid the flamboyant lineup of the Georgetown Trailer Park Mall—houses a cloistered cake shop, Deep Sea Sugar and Salt. Baker Charlie Dunmire fashions towering beauties like a ginger-molasses cake, its nine layers soaked in a syrup of stout and molasses. Or a s’mores-inspired confection (pictured above) layered with ganache and crowned with toasted whitecaps of marshmallow. Hours are limited and slices go fast, but Dunmire’s planning a proper shop nearby.  —Allecia Vermillion

Vegetable Tales

In the Denny Regrade you’ll find ’Table, care of Doug Kawasaki and Ma‘ono’s Mark Fuller, two loyal meat eaters. No cows here. Instead: Vegetarian winners like the ’Table Bowl, an earthy, nutty mix of mushroom, eggplant, kidney beans, quinoa, and hominy topped with a dollop of yogurt and tangy, pickled cucumbers. —Ciara O’Rourke

Brown Liquor Libations

Through an alleyway entrance off Bell Street awaits Branchwater, a low-lit lounge with dark wood everything and cushy armchairs. Inside the tucked-away bar—sibling to street-facing Pintxo—comfort comes in many forms, particularly bourbon. Take the Mighty Jack, a balancing act of bonded bourbon and apple brandy whose sweetness is tempered by a nice hit of amaro. —Rosin Saez

A Better Way to Salad Bar

For any card-carrying vegan, a Makini Howell restaurant, which has wooed even the staunchest of carnivores, is the plant-based place to be. Howell’s latest, Plum Chop’t, arrives next door to her Plum Bistro on 12th Ave. It’s a fast-casual walkup counter with some warm offerings for breakfast and hearty salads come lunchtime, like the World Traveler. Basic romaine cradles ubercrunchy turmeric-spiced pepitas, bright red peppers, coriander tofu, edamame, and tangerine. —RS

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