In the cool, dark months of November, J. J. Proville and Zac Overman opened L'Oursin, a French spot with all the brass-backed chairs, antique silverware, and charm you could ever want. Last weekend, the Central District restaurant has embarked on its maiden voyage of brunch.
"Le Brunch," as the menu is so named, starts off with offerings of the baked variety: croissant au beurre, brioche au chocolat, panier à pain with currant jam and butter. There's buckwheat pancakes topped with summer fruit, apricot butter, and syrup, too, for a sweeter-skewing dish. Otherwise, let L'Oursin take you to savory town, a place of potato pavé—accordion folds of potato, crispy on the outside—with sous vide poached eggs, then there's cold-smoked sablefish with l'oursin boursin, a sea urchin cream cheese, nodding of course to the bistro's sea creature namesake; it all sits atop a bagel along with tomato and onion, a Frenchified take on lox.
Baked eggs, salmon, brunch cassoulet of pork and duck confit all make brunchy appearances too, as does an affogato—in the morning? Uh, hell yes—it consists of Vietnamese coffee poured over creme fraiche ice cream.
The drinks, and you knew there had to be some damn fine drinks in play, read like a boozy bucket list of what you'd drink on the sandy shores of Marseille. Kir normand, a dry and fruity spritz with cider and cassis, gin et jus made of gin, Aperol, grapefruit, and tonic (hellafied gansta lean optional), the Girlfriend in Tacoma includes rosé, amaro, and a grapefruit twist—"That's it." Did you want more grapefruit? Good. The Marguerite is described as, "Blanco tequila meets pamplemousse, lime, and bubbly rosé. Is it a margarita, paloma, or spritz? Yes."
Yes, there are drinks sans alcohol. Yes, there is coffee aplenty with rosette latte art served in lemon yellow espresso cups. It's delicious. It's cute. Get there.