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Bruciato pizzaiolo Brandon Thompson, a man perennially covered in flour.

The chef behind Hitchcock and Hitchcock Deli has turned his Monday night Bruciato pizza popup into a full-on restaurant on Bainbridge Island's Winslow Way East.

Brendan McGill and his pizzaiolo Brandon Thompson make Neapolitan-style pies (wood fired, traditional 00 flour, San Marzano tomatoes...) just like the ones from Bruciato's popup days. Some pies are classic, others are topped with uncommon combos that lean heavily on what's in season, as well as meat from the Mangalitsa pork from McGill's own Shady Acres farm: cured pork loin with dates, basil, mozzarella and balsamic vinegar, or rich, melty bone marrow with watermelon radishes.

For the first few days, the pizza menu might be a little truncated, says McGill. "And for small plates I just hit our farmers and our foragers and our fishmongers and ordered everything they had that looked good to me right now." Where Hitchcock is heavy on technique (maybe a parsnip flan topped with a crispy parsnip chip), the antipasti and piatti at Bruciato runs more to the rustic, simple side—roasted vegetables, meatballs, and, as McGill puts it, "bagna cauda and vegetables until the end of times."

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A Bruciato seasonal pie topped with Brussels sprouts.

The restaurant—way larger than nearby Hitchcock, the two Hitchcock delis, and certainly the Verjus juice bar McGill runs with his wife, Heidi—occupies part of the old hardware store space on Winslow Way, a longtime go-to in the town's main drag, that has been more or less empty since 2011. No surprise, the bar is stocked with many an Italian (or Italian varietal) wine and spirits, plus Peroni on tap.

After a few weeks of dinner service, McGill plans to expand into lunch, and eventually even breakfast, which he says will involve espresso, duck egg- and bacon-topped breakfast pizzas (my love of Hitchcock's bacon is rivaled only by my love of pizza), and cornetti, the Italian breakfast pastry McGill describes as "kind of like a lazy man's croissant."

 Right now Bruciato is open Tuesday to Saturday at 4pm; once breakfast and lunch happen, the place will be open all day, in true third place fashion. Keep tabs on the Bruciato website and Facebook page for more details. Eater Seattle has some photos of the space.


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