Food News

The Week in Five Bites, from Pizza News to Fantastical Fremont Biscuits

A new owner for Via Trib, and a new location for Bounty Kitchen.

By Allecia Vermillion August 17, 2020

You can totally do this.

Image: Jack's BBQ

Fantastical Biscuits and Gravy

The former home of Red Door, a bar that was pouring craft beer back when people still used the term microbrew, has a new identity that seems like a fitting addition to Fremont’s DNA. The team behind the nearby Stampede Cocktail Club have turned this space into Dreamland, a bar that serves breakfast food well into the night, meaning biscuits and gravy with your choice of toppings, alongside big-personality cocktails like a raspberry mezcal paloma or vegan grasshopper slushy. So basically it’s a dystopian Leslie Knope fantasy come to life (Ben Wyatt would dig all the mythology references, too).

Takeout, in a Charming Alley

It’s not exactly a streatery, but Columbia City has blocked off an exceedingly picturesque alley in the heart of its business district to give diners a place to consume their takeout. A little stretch of Ferdinand just off Rainier, next to Geraldine’s Counter, now has lights and plants and tables and stools. It’s available for anyone who just grabbed food from any of the nearby (rad) businesses, like Island Soul, La Medusa, Comfort Zone, or Off Alley, which just opened and is already something really special. U Village does something similar, blocking off a section of roadway so restaurants like Din Tai Fung can seat people outdoors. Props to any creative application of outdoor surface area that helps patio-less restaurants win customers in this summer of streateries.

A New Slice of Via Trib

Is there some sort of German word for something that’s a huge surprise and also not at all surprising? That’s how I feel about Off the Rez buying Via Tribunali. Founder Mike McConnell’s been increasingly focused on his life on Vashon, and his younger brother Mark McConnell and wife Cecilia Rikard, the couple behind Seattle’s only Native American food truck and, now, Native American restaurant, are sharp, careful operators.

Avocado Toast, on Repeat

Bounty Kitchen is the sort of affable house of great breakfast and interesting salads you want to have just down the street. Now anyone in the general area of 19th Avenue and Mercer can count themselves among the fortunate. The restaurant just opened its third location in the former Tallulah’s address. The place looks pretty different than it did during the Linda Derschang era (white walled minimalism, no enormous portraits of imperious long-hair cats) but that fantastic patio rides again—and the front wall of windows is open to dispense takeout orders.

DIY Smoked Meat

This proliferation of chef-lead virtual cooking classes is a mixed bag: Some are charming (and legitimately helpful), others more entertaining (or more awkward) than purposeful. But Jack's BBQ's first-ever Zoom tutorial on the finer points of smoked meat has a lot of promise. Purchase a ticket here for sessions that begin with barbecue history and end with how to smoke a cocktail. Better yet, heed the upsell and buy an uncooked brisket to smoke it right along with Jack Timmons and his pitmaster, Joe Whalen. 

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