Opening Dispatch

Queen Anne's Eden Hill Provisions Slings Its First Burger on Friday

It's not just a burger joint (but that burger is absurdly good).

By Allecia Vermillion September 19, 2019

A lovely backdrop for burgers. And kettle corn brussels sprouts. And brunch.

When Maximillian Petty launched Eden Hill in 2016, earning national acclaim for carefully maximal creations like his crispy pig head candy bar, he didn’t reckon with the power of the Big Max.

Tomorrow, Petty and his wife Jennifer open Eden Hill Provisions, a more casual bistro just two blocks down on Queen Anne Ave from its elegantly wallpapered mothership. While Eden Hill Provisions serves way more than burgers, the road to this family-friendly spin-off was paved with the chef's own take on a Big Mac. Petty's towering burger began as a staff meal and evolved into a pseudo-secret Sunday night burger to fill seats at the bar. It caught on. "You'd see someone having seven courses next to someone eating the biggest cheeseburger you've ever seen," says the chef. "It was fun, but the spectrum was out of control."

Petty decided to give the neighborhood the casual hangout it wanted, and rescue his kitchen staff from putting on multiple menus in the same tiny space. While Eden Hill Provisions will specialize in the Big Max—plus two smaller burger offspring and some nearly-shoestring fries—the overall menu definitely bears Petty’s creative stamp: faux chilaquiles made from cauliflower (a favorite at Eden Hill), kettle corn brussels sprouts, sea scallop lasagna. At brunch, you can dip crispy french toast sticks in maple syrup…or a smooth combo of sea buckthorn and lemon curd. Dutch baby cakes have a foie gras cake batter upgrade option that should look familiar to fans of the Eden Hill dessert. Savory brunch situations include, uh, light and restrained fare, like a brisket hash gilded with duck fat tots. 

The Big Max in all its glory, as seen at the Queen Anne Farmers Market earlier this year.

Petty turned the former Cupcake Royale’s pink and white space into a dining room as carefully textured as his dishes—with a pale pink, beige, and sage color scheme that sort of recalls that foie gras cake batter. Which, by the way, is one of the many jars of housemade items and other titular provisions (hot sauces, bacon, wine) stocked in the market section by the entrance. A side counter up front functions as a burger window of sorts; customers will be able to order online and head here for expedient pickup. 

The Big Max has evolved a bit since we wrote about it early last year. These days, Petty uses smoked gouda; "we've literally done 200 trials," he told me recently during a pre-open Home Depot run. During a summer preview at the Queen Anne Farmers Market outside his door, Petty's staff might crank out 300 of them in a four-hour window.

Meanwhile, the original Eden Hill shifted to a tasting menu–only format at the start of September, stratifying his two restaurants into more overtly fancy and casual. Perhaps he and Nathan Lockwood can form some sort of support group

Eden Hill Provisions will be open every day from 5–10. Weekend brunch will begin September 28, and lunch service a month or so after that.

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