When it comes to neighborhoods with strong gravitational pull on gastronomes, you may immediately think Capitol Hill, Ballard, Pioneer Square.

Time to add Fremont.

In the last few years it’s drawn the Whale Wins, Joule, Rock Creek Seafood and Spirits, Cochon, Agrodolce, and Uneeda Burger. Which themselves joined classics like Art of the Table, Revel, Paseo, and Brad’s Swingside Cafe--the last set to close, sniff, early next year.

(And of course there was the late great Dot’s Deli, which overnight went from center of the Center of the Universe to fond frankfurter memory.)

And I know you’ll tell me what I’m leaving out.

Now add Pomerol, a straitlaced French stalwart from the classicist who brought us Portage on Queen Anne and June in Madrona, Vuong Loc. Nothing trendy about this place: just a wood-fired grill, lots of meat, and busy-in-a-good-way desserts.

Read my Pomerol review in the latest Seattle Met.