Ten years ago, a mere 20 or so diners would assemble inside a snug, squat Fremont bungalow to eat a parade of dishes from the mind of a chef. Dustin Ronspies’s mind, that is, from which sprang prix-fixe dinners that combined his culinary whims with the season’s freshest yield. But in February 2017, Ronspies and his co-owner and wife, Shannon Van Horn, decamped for a room full of windows and tasteful blond woodwork on Stone Way. Now diners gather in a high-ceilinged space, to watch the kitchen from the curved 10-seat chef’s counter, or to enjoy the natural wood tabletops’ considerable elbow room. While there’s a new a la carte offering, Ronspies’s tasting menu is still the beating heart of Art of the Table. Everything hits, one deftly presented plate after another: a chilled bowl of peppery pea vine soup with a dollop of creme fraiche, an asparagus terrine so green that Kermit himself might offer a fist bump of solidarity. Neah Bay black cod swims among chili oil and fennel pollen and it’s not unheard of for diners to order a second foie gras torchon, even amidst a nine-course meal.