Another white restaurant from the extraordinary Renee Erickson (the Walrus and the Carpenter) wears all the buoyancy and cheer of a country cottage. Add in the menu of French- and English-inspired noshes, many of which are served room-temperature at whatever time they come out of the wood oven (smoked herring butter on toast with pickled fennel, sliced and salt-roasted filet mignon with potatoes and horseradish cream)—and what you’ve got is a very good picnic, right in the heart of the Fremont Collective. Don’t miss the smoky roast chicken or the butter-roasted zucchini bread for dessert.