It's a long way to Seattle's closest hot springs—including six miles of rough, potholed, unpaved road in the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River east of North Bend, then more than four miles by foot into the forest. Not to mention that soakers must score a hard-to-get $30 reservation via a monthly lottery. But those who make it find a cluster of stone pools straight out of a fairy tale, the mineral waters emerging from an old mine shaft at 125 degrees. The soaking pools themselves linger closer to 100, a comfortable temperature in the damp Cascades, with a nearby waterfall in Burnt Book Creek providing a soothing soundtrack.

The last century had all the fun. In the early 1900s, a grand hotel sat near Stevens Pass to host visitors to the hot springs on a steep hill above; by the 1930s, it was torn down to make way for new train tracks. For the last few decades the pools remained as big rubber tubs only; a neat soak, but not particularly picturesque. But last summer, owners of the privately held springs did improvements on the original hot springs footprint to create a gorgeous rectangular pool that would put the hot tubs at most four-star hotels to shame. It's a worthy reward after what it takes to get in to Scenic; first scoring a reservation online ($20 per person), then hiking more than 1,000 feet into the Cascade woods (snowshoes or foot traction almost always required in winter). A pit toilet and a few benches are all that these springs have as amenities, but caretakers keep a close eye on maintenance and prohibiting trespassers. 

Not all springs demand an arduous journey; this Olympic National Park–developed resort pumps hot water into three swimming pools of cement and tile near Port Angeles. The forested foothills of the Olympics tower above a spot first used by the Quileute Tribe. A series of short hikes from the area pair well with a swim; this is the very damp, very green part of the Northwest. The resort is closed in winter, but from spring through fall visitors can buy daily access (though overnight visitors to the cabins get in free).

Picture the opposite of Sol Duc: a natural pool far in the Olympic evergreens, water unfiltered and uncontrolled. Washouts mean that the only access comes with a hike from a trailhead near the Elwha River west of Port Angeles, currently more than 10 miles each way. The back-to-nature vibe contrasts with the possibility of bad bacteria in the waters, but intrepid adventurers can get the spot to themselves.

The soaking process in the historic Carson Hot Springs Resort near the Columbia River has a nineteenth century sanatorium feel. Visitors get a clawfoot tub to themselves in a 1930s bathhouse and are then wrapped in linen meant to warm and soothe. A more modern mineral therapy pool sits at 104 degrees (too hot for kids) with a touch of chlorine.

The history of the warm waters east of Vancouver, British Columbia, is long and colorful—gold miners, First Nations people, and a poker winner under pressure. Only guests of the lakefront Harrison Hot Springs Resort can use the five pools on the property, filled with water from the underground spring, but a public pool is open to all. Harrison Lake itself provides boating and bird-watching aplenty, and Sasquatch is rumored to wander the region. 

Hot springs are famous for their free-love vibe, exemplified by Breitenbush Hot Springs, both posh and unapologetically hippie and once home to seven pools. Dramatically impacted by 2020 wildfires—more than 70 buildings burned down—it has reemerged with new offerings, including outdoor clawfoot soaking tubs and modern lodgings, though some of the original pools remain. The resort still serves vegetarian meals, and the property hosts retreats as well as day users. Expect nude bathers. 

A few hours southeast of Bend, in a scenic stretch of empty prairie, a perfectly aged old barn sits almost alone. Inside, a hot pool fills most of the space, a rustic version of an indoor pool. A few hotter pools outside have even better views. With a few cabins nearby and some RV spots—overnight bookings are required—the hot springs is an ideal road trip destination. It feels even more remote than it is (which is already plenty).