Treat Beat

You Need This Giant Cookie Cake in Your Life

At Lowrider Baking Company, the homey dessert reaches new heights.

By Jaime Archer August 8, 2019

Stacks on stacks of cookies.

No disrespect to the pizookie (aka pizza cookies), but the cookie cake is the highest form of the most basic baked good. The pizookie? You can buy one at almost any grocery store. Layers of cookies and frosting stacked up high to reach dessert bliss? Only at Lowrider Baking Company, the cookie operation from pastry pro Emily Allport.

Allport had, in fact, made pizza cookies in the past, but they weren’t quite special enough. I could make them enormous and layer them, she thought. A little more than two weeks ago, the first cake was born: a churro flavor with four cinnamon cookie layers, plus cream cheese icing and dark chocolate ganache.

The slices were such a hit that the next week Allport rolled out three new cakes featuring some of the bakery’s signature flavors (the churro, sadly, did not return). Birthday cake cookies—chock-full of white chocolate chips and sprinkles—get layered between cream cheese frosting. Vanilla buttercream accompanies Lowrider's brown butter triple chocolate chunk cookie, and the cookies and cream saddles up with chocolate malt buttercream. So far, the $6 slices have been bonkers popular, and Allport plans to keep them around—both at the Central District shop and the Georgetown trailer—as long as sweet tooths are after them.

If you’re wondering how you can get your hands on a whole cookie cake—be it for a birthday, wedding, or indulgent Friday night—rest assured they’re coming soon. At the moment, Allport’s locking down the last few details, mainly how to cut the cakes with ease when you don’t have access to, say, a blowtorch to heat your knife. She’s optimistic that it’ll all be squared away sometime in September.

Once the whole cake business is up and running, expect rotating cookie cake slices to join the menu alongside the three current flavors and myriad cookies. Allport has already dreamt up a lengthy list of new combinations, like an oversized Little Debbie oatmeal creme pie.

Icing on cookies is nothing new (black and white cookies, gingerbread men, sugar cookies). But 10-inch-wide, four-layer cookie cakes exist on a new plane—a beautiful one, where 53 cookies come baked together in one monstrous dessert. "I want these cookie cakes to be over the top," Allport says. "I don't want people thinking they're ever going to be delicate or dainty."

Safe to say you should have a glass of milk waiting.

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