The Pastries Are On Point at Cubes Baking Company

It may seem gimmicky—everything here is square?—but a bite from one of these angular treats is a visual and flavorful delight.

By Rosin Saez December 19, 2017 Published in the January 2018 issue of Seattle Met

If a bakery is an exercise in eating with your eyes first, then Cubes Baking Company is the kind of workout we can get behind. It’s all too easy to—with the unchecked voracity of a blue, cookie-obsessed puppet—pillage the shelves of this Wallingford bakeshop, a place where the likes of cupcakes and scones take on a boxy silhouette. Indeed the baked goods here are square. But don’t get it twisted; they’re not the slightest bit boring.

The treats at Cubes are inspired by the pastries of owner and baker Kevin Moulder’s heritage and childhood. He grew up near San Antonio, where panaderías bless nearly every corner with Mexican goods—conchas, seashell-shaped sweet breads; marranitos, or cookies that look like little pigs; and a puff pastry traditionally filled with fruit jam that takes the form of a soup pot, a cazuela. “Mexican pastries are named after their shape,” says Moulder. “This obvious reference to geometry is not something I just made up.” Rather, he’s taken a pinch of nostalgia and baked it into a four-sided snack.

No conventional cupcakes, there’s nary a bulbous muffin top in sight. Find instead cupcubes, concha cubes, sqones, pretzel cubes, plus six flavors of tres leches cake, like a custom-order one strongly reminiscent of strawberry milk, the kind from a yellow carton of Nesquik, but in the best way—an after-school-digestif way.

See? Everything hints to the past but in new, decidedly squarish forms. Even as shapeless blobs, Moulder’s creations would still taste good and quite—sorry—well rounded. 

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  1. Iced Cube Cupcube (top) A cupcake in theory, a box in shape: This treat is vanilla—but not boring.
  2. Jalapeño Cheddar Sqone (top) It’s a pickled-peppers-topped, cheesy-blessed ace.
  3. Cinnamon Sugar Pinwheel It wouldn’t pass muster in Tetris but wins a test of taste buds.
  4. Vanilla Orange Sqone Lighter than your average scone, this is all citrus notes and airy delight.
  5. Cinnamon Sugar Mexican Wedding Cookies Dearly beloved, let’s eat sweet goodness.
  6. Jalapeño Corn Muffin How would you like a little bit of heat all up in your savory snack?
  7. Cazuela Named for a Spanish soup pot, this vanilla-pudding-filled bite is colloquially hot.
  8. Green Chili Bacon Pretzel Cube Twist (and shout) over this gift in salty-savory form.
  9. Powdered Sugar Mexican Wedding Cookies It’s like a lifelong vow of sweetness. 
  10. Sea Salt Pretzel Cube Simplicity at its briny-baked-good finest.
  11. Pink Concha Cube A crackled, seashell-like pattern nods to its Mexican bakery origins.
  12. Raspberry Riel Named for the rail, or riel, pattern, this treat is puff perfection—bar none.
  13. Purple Suede Cupcube A singularly smooth, violet-hued play on red velvet cupcakes.
  14. Chocolate Chip Peanut Butter Sqone A most classic flavor pairing baked into a square bundle.
  15. Marranitos These molasses cookies (branded with “OINK”) pay homage to their swine beginnings.
  16. Bacon Cheddar Hojaldra Flaky, light puff pastry meets comfort food flavors.
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