Opening Dispatch

Phinney Ridge Is Getting Meatier: Opus Co. Opens on July 26

Lamb bacon, crispy pork collar, ultra-seasonal offerings sans preachiness—inquire within.

By Rosin Saez July 21, 2017

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Meaty goods, pickled veggies, and more—inquire within. 

Image: Rosin Saez

The legacy of meat lives on at 7410 Greenwood Ave. Mark Schroder has taken over the space formerly occupied by Martino's and has filled it with, yes, more meat, but fresh and pickled vegetables, housemade vinegars, and cast iron–cooked rice, too.

Opus Co. officially opens on Wednesday, July 26 at 5. Schroder, the former chef de cuisine at Trove, has taken the Asian sensibilities honed from his gigs at Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi's restaurants and combined them with his Illinois farm upbringing. In other words, lots of pickled goodness, some even kimchi-esque, and much of the menu going with the flow of the whatever's in season. Plus, he's going full hog. Literally. Meat here will come from a whole animal program (sourced from Enumclaw’s Wilderness Farms), mostly of the pork, lamb, and chicken variety.

That menu will consist of about a dozen small and large plates meant to mix and match and share, kind of like a barbecue or picnic, you can build your own combination and commune 'round the table. Schroder says it should have this neighborhood grill feel, "Like if Applebee's were seasonal and small." Well, no striped awnings or sports memorabilia in sight here, but the makings of a Phinney Ridge gathering spot all the same.

To start, there will be sesame and fennel seed–crusted pork collar, crisp on the grill and served with a stone fruit sauce, maybe cherry or plum (Schoder is ready for some seasonal plum action), and a fennel sauerkraut. Also on deck: lamb bacon with pickled apricot, lamb loin with a bonito crust alongside anise yogurt, Midwest three bean salad done up with kidney beans, pickled green beans, and chickpea miso with charred shallot vinaigrette. Rice is served on the crunchy side, too, and cooked in personal-sized cast iron pot tossed on the fire. And expect a humble menu of wine, beer, and cocktails to wash it all down.

Grilled. Charred. Smoked. Crisped. Fermented. This is Opus Co. Check it out Wednesday through Sunday, from 5–10pm—though those may change slightly as Schroder and his talented crew, including Paolo Campbell, a fellow alum of the school of Yang and Chirchi and former sous chef at Revel, get settled in.

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