Review

Lark. Slab. Bitter. Raw.

John Sundstrom’s new location fits three eateries in one stunning space.

By Kathryn Robinson April 24, 2015 Published in the May 2015 issue of Seattle Met


John Sundstrom recently
moved his beloved Lark to the warehousey flank of Pike/Pine off Madison, spinning out a starlit space—indigo banquettes, white linens, a welkin of pendants overhead—as elegant as any in town. In the rafters: casual charcuterie and crudo bar, Bitter/Raw. Downstairs: Slab Sandwiches and Pie, where the daytime-only menu reinvents both genres. (The biscuity pie crusts exist at the corner of divine inspiration and butter.) Lark, that upstart pioneer of small-plate dining, is now the noble elder; grown-ups come for that disappearing species—relaxing high-end dinners—assembled from small plates or a combination of mains and Sundstrom’s famous grains.

The menu is speckled with old favorites (eel with saba, mascarpone-creamy farro) and executed, as in the crisped pork belly with a rye whiskey glaze, with Lark’s reliably sure hand. Alas, service can be sophomoric, throwing into bold relief the poise of this food.   952 E Seneca St, Capitol Hill, 206-323-5275

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