Critic's Notebook

The 10 Seattle Pork Plates You Cannot Miss

Unless you’re a vegan. (And maybe not even then.)

By Kathryn Robinson September 25, 2014

Fried pork shank at Radiator Whiskey.

Sure, the term “Bucket List” is hackneyed. But in this case it’s the only term that will do, as enjoying these 10 legendary pork dishes not only has to be done before the end of your life—it may very well hasten it.

I kid! Just don't go eating all this other white meat in one week and you'll be fine.

As ever, call first; these restaurants are known for these dishes but no one serves everything every night.

So without further ado, and in no particular order…


Cochon Olsen Farms “Phat Ass” Pork Chop
It’s $34-worth of bone-in loin, flavor-rich throughout and shockingly moist considering its one-and-a-half-inch.thickness. Generally chef Derek Ronspies will serve this over grits and seasonal embellishments, but this porker works best as dinner-for-two, along with a salad or starter to split.

Lecosho Porchetta
Among the many pork plates at this Harbor Steps standby is pork tenderloin wrapped in pork belly, plated this time of year with all kinds of stewy seasonal things. Sometimes they’ll slap it between grilled ciabatta with onion marmalade and aioli and call it lunch.

Cascina Spinasse Maiale Della Sera
Every night brings a new preparation of heritage pork at Capitol Hill’s Piedmontese treasure. One evening a few weeks ago, chunks of milk-braised shoulder, tender as love itself, arrived atop a trio of lemony kales. Perfect.

 Marination Ma Kai Pork Katsu Sandwich
The pork katsu sandwich at this beach shack at the West Seattle water taxi terminus is a large panko-crusted pork cutlet flapping out the sides of a Macrina ciabatta roll, slathered with tonkatsu sauce and tangy slaw. Best flippin’ laundry emergency you’ve ever licked off the front of your shirt.

Boat Street Cafe Carlton Farms Roasted Pork Rib Chop
Those who revere Renee Erickson’s original dinnerhouse know that the Carlton Farms chop and the Mad Hatcher chicken represent two menu mainstays prepared with different embellishments every night. Once, memorably, the tender chop came with roasted padrone peppers over a nutty Romesco with walnuts and fingerlings. Reliably killer.

 Paseo Caribbean Roast Sandwich
Well of course it’s on here: It’s only the most cultishly beloved sandwich in town. Marinated, slow-roasted pork morsels fall out of the bread in equal measure with fat caramelized onions, jalepenos, cilantro sprigs, and blops of garlicky mayo. Worth the guaranteed wait.

Radiator Whiskey Fried Pork Shank
The rest of that menu description reads: “…with herb aioli and Mama Lil’s pickled goat horn peppers.” The pork is fantastic, with a nice fatty crackle, wedged between its herby base and hot pepper crown. Vivid, both flavorfully and texturally. (And visually! See photo above.)

Jack’s BBQ St. Louis Ribs
Jack Timmons's new joint down Georgetown way is all about the brisket—but miss the ribs at your peril. They’re moist, smoky, and glazed with a shy little sauce that adds tang without getting in the way of the sublime pork flavor.

Bar del Corso Tonno del Chianti
Olive oil-braised pork shoulder chunks have become a mainstay among the small plates at Beacon Hill’s beloved neighborhood pizzeria, served perhaps over controne beans with arugula and cherry tomatoes. You won’t believe how tender.

John Howie Steak Tempura Fried Kurobuta Bacon
At Bellevue's fave steakhouse, five thick slices of exquisite bacon are cloaked in a featherweight tempura, then fried to a satisfying crunch. You think that’s decadent: Dip it into the accompanying maple sambal sauce. Obscenely delectable.

 

Filed under
Share
Show Comments