Our poutine probe began in Fremont, where a line cook at Uneeda burger shared his theory on Seattle’s curious fascination with the Canuck concoction, in which gravy and cheese curds cover piles of French fries.

Now we head to Smith, a Linda Derschang joint on 15th Avenue East that has been serving up poutine since its earliest days. There, head chef Chris Howell schooled us on the proper execution for superior poutine, the popularity of which, he says, comes down to simple human appetite. “People love cheese, people love fries. It’s never going to stop.”

Behold:

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