Local Tofu and Miso Offer Fresh Takes on Traditional Techniques
Image: Jane Sherman
The soybean is a many-splendored thing, and, for decades, most of those splendors were completely misunderstood by the average American. Thankfully, Seattle has left those dark ages in the past and now produces at least a dozen different types of soy products.
Tofu is something of a culinary chameleon, amplifying the flavors around it, rather than creating them itself. We found the differences negligible between the local makers’ plain tofu: All are better than the typical mass-produced stuff, especially when purchased fresh from the factory, but none stood out from the pack. Instead, we found the highlights came from the value-added products.
Fried Seasoned Tofu
Thanh Son Tofu
When I asked the difference between two types of fried and seasoned tofu at Thanh Son’s Little Saigon deli, the woman behind the counter patiently explained that in one version, it was seasoned, then fried. In the other, the seasoning was applied after. I ordered both, and I would do so again. For snacking and eating over rice, though, I preferred the post-frying seasoning, with its wrinkly exterior, coated in red chile and green onions, that gives way to the smooth, tender interior. Thanh Son’s shop, in general, is ideal for anyone looking to expand their tofu IQ—along with the fried varieties, it carries still-warm freshly made tofu, tofu pudding, and soy milk.
Traditional Miso
Anna Sugiyama channeled the skills she learned making miso alongside her father into creating the area’s first small-batch miso company. Unlike the tofu we tested, Yoka’s miso bears little resemblance to the grocery store version: The chunky rustic texture is like natural peanut butter compared to the Jif smoothness with which most Americans are familiar. Sugiyama ages the paste she makes with Washington-grown beans longer, too, which adds deep, lingering umami that wakes up soups and sauces. Yoka sells the traditional miso—in glass jars, as of late last year—at the University District Farmers Market, along with miso soup balls and occasional specials like miso caramel and Japanese-style pickles. The miso is also available at DeLaurenti.
Image: Jane Sherman
Steamed Tofu
The simple name of this packaged product obscures the flavor inside. It’s steamed, yes, but also seasoned with tamari, ginger, garlic, and cayenne pepper—simple but strong. The steaming process rids the thin slices of raw tofu’s crumbly fragility, giving them a gentle bite and making them easy to use like a lunch meat, toss into stir-fries, or simply snack on straight from the fridge. This Vashon Island company started making tofu in the 1970s. While their standard tofu is easy to find, the steamed variety is more difficult—I’ve had luck at larger PCC locations and at Central Co-Op.
