The South-meets-Sichuan crispy wings, heavy with ma la spice, are supposed to be the star at So Tasty. But while the fast-casual Chinese fried chicken restaurant in Bellevue’s Crossroads Shopping Center does fry a mean bird, the true treasure here comes from the dessert menu.

When I pulled one of the Portuguese egg tarts from the small aluminum tins in which they are baked, it barely sagged, even after I took a bite. Despite the best efforts of the jiggly weight of just-set, barely sweet custard, the bottom crust retained precisely defined layers; the cross-section looked as if I could break it in half and shuffle those layers like a deck of cards.

I’m dubious of the restaurant’s claim to have the best fried chicken in the state. But I wouldn’t hesitate if they changed that slogan to the best Portuguese egg tarts.