Heather Earnhardt in the original Wandering Goose on Capitol Hill. Will travel for bundt cake.

Image: Olivia Brent

One of the city's biggest-deal restaurant openings actually happened three hours outside of town. Within city limits, though, Seattle welcomed mindful Korean food in Fremont, freshly made masa in Pike Place Market, and fried chicken of both the Filipino and Korean persuasions.

The Wandering Goose

Tokeland

News so big it reverberates from Willapa Bay: Heather Earnhardt has officially reopened the Wandering Goose at the Tokeland Hotel, which she and husband Zac Young took over in 2018. The fiercely beloved, consistently jammed Capitol Hill biscuit haven closed at the end of 2020 due to…all of the things. Now it lives on, 150 miles to the south, with a menu of biscuits and gravy, local rockfish with grits, lunchtime crab melts, and fried chicken Fridays. Unlike its predecessor on 15th Avenue, this Goose seats 70 and serves dinner every night.

Made in House

Fremont

The same mindful Korean dishes that make BopBox so great informs its new sibling in Fremont. The cafe side of the space serves the same veggie-filled bibimbap (even better with bulgogi rib eye) and some new sampler plates. But owner Jeanny Rhee also gives the deli equal billing: “A place where you can grab something really nutritious that’s under $20, that’s not a sandwich, and is Asian food.” The morning coffee program sounds great too.

Maiz

Pike Place Market

The market's most recent arrival adds a cool new dimension to its mission of putting food production in public view. Maiz—a new project from the family behind Sazon in Ballard and Queen Anne—nixtamalizes heirloom corn harvested in Mexico. Customers can buy house-ground masa, take home some ridiculously fresh tortillas, or get after the shop’s masa-centered takeout tacos and antojitos: tostadas, gorditas, flautas—even chilaquiles and tamales. The menu lists which breeds of corn currently power the tlayocos and sopes. The sleeper hit might be the cafesito bar, which dispenses horchata lattes and Mexican mochas, plus masa-based coffee traditions like atole and champurrado. The cheerful tiled shop next door to the faux-OG Starbucks will be open 10–6 every day except Sunday.

The Chicken Supply

Phinney Ridge

Paolo Campbell has officially turned Opus Co.’s space on Greenwood Avenue into the Chicken Supply, going from able lieutenant to captain of his own Filipino fried chicken operation. Order thighs, wings, drumsticks, even skewers by the piece to build a meal as big or small as you want it, with sides like coconut collard greens, stewed monggo beans over garlic rice, even chilled pancit. Even better: the chicken is gluten-free. So’s the butter mochi dessert.

Pelicana

Capitol Hill

In other chicken-related news, this Pike/Pine outpost of a South Korean chicken chain is now softly open in the former Bill’s Off Broadway space, prominent on the corner of Harvard Avenue and East Pine. As you might have guessed, Pelicana serves Korean fried chicken, and offers a dizzying amount of configurations: boneless, wings, or bone-in; whole bird, half bird, or 10- or 20-piece. A ton of sauces. Even more beer.

Big Max Burger Co.

Queen Anne

Okay, technically more of a reopening, but the former Eden Hill Provisions has softly returned under a new burger-centered identity. Owners Maximillian and Jennifer Petty have added a few meal combos and added a permanent veggie burger to the lineup of fancy fast food.

 

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