When Salumi quietly moved into its new, larger quarters on Occidental, the menu really didn't change. With one, salty-sweet exception.

The beloved deli, which changed hands about a year ago, now makes pancetta chocolate chip cookies. It began as a way to use up a surfeit of pancetta, say new owners Martinique Grigg and Clara Veniard. Nancy Karis, a Salumi kitchen veteran, fine-tuned the recipe for these slightly chewy cookies, thick with both chocolate chips and bits of crisped pork. 

It's a golden-edged avatar for what Salumi is trying to do here: adapt toward the future, without losing its roots. Find these cookies in paper bags by the register at its new location, the former Rain Shadow Meats Squared, at 404 Occidental Ave.