Critic's Notebook

The Only Thing Slab Sandwiches and Pie Has Been Missing…

…is something it now has. Ladies and gentlemen, have a seat.

By Kathryn Robinson September 29, 2016

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See that pass-through? Slab sandwich eaters can now eat behind that, in Lark's bar. 

When it opened as an around-the-corner-but-shares-a-kitchen adjunct to Lark, I a little bit lost my mind over Slab’s sandwiches. Slow-braised brisket with smoked mayo and pickled jalapeno. Cubano, with pork confit, jamon, scallion aioli, smoked pickles, and Comte cheese. A meaty Spanish sardine with arugula, fresh lemon, and the pepper relish piperade, Some special creation each day, announced via Instagram.

All from the quietly competent genius of chef John Sundstrom, who understands that as a self-contained universe of texture and flavor—a sandwich is a uniquely important thing to get right.

And get it right he did, even without that feature that a person might call central to the restaurant game: Chairs. Oh, he had three or four seats inside tiny Slab, along with a standing bar for maybe three folks—but no proper chairs and tables. Meanwhile, across the lobby bubbled the first Seattle outpost of the Vancouver, BC sandwich sensation, Meat and Bread—which also offered sandwiches, good ones, along with seats. Tons of ‘em. Joint was cavernous.

Fast forward to the current moment, and Meat and Bread is closed—too many seats, turned out (though there’s another branch in South Lake Union)—and Slab, praise the skies, is becoming somewhat more bonafide. This week brought news that Slab patrons can not only now sit in the bar area of Lark (during Slab’s open hours of 10am to 3pm), they can also enjoy their sandwich with a beer or other adult beverage.

This is very good news. 

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