Over the last 10 years, Southcenter has built itself into an Asian dining destination, mostly on the strength of large, often international, chains: Din Tai Fung, Jollibee, 85° Bakery, and Kizuki Ramen. In 2024, the restaurant row on the north side added two more big players, SoCal-founded Gen Korean BBQ and the popular Japanese chain Marugame Udon, as well as a single, local independent: Mr. Dim Sum.

Founded by the owners of Chinatown–International District stalwart Hong Kong Bistro, Mr. Dim Sum has all the precision and polish of its neighboring chains in the decor and service, a credit to operations director Sarah Wong, who came from Din Tai Fung.

The food, though beautifully presented on tiny stands and in custom-branded hexagonal wooden steamers, wavers in quality. But one dish is good enough that it will bring me back any time I am in the area: purple potato balls with golden custard.

The delicate outer crust has the gentle crispness and light chew of other dim sum made with glutinous rice flour—pork-filled “footballs” and sesame balls—with an added crunch from pankolike crumbs all around the outside. Inside, the brilliant purple of the dough opens to reveal a silky smooth, sunshine-yellow custard.

While the dish is not totally unique to Mr. Dim Sum (notably, nearby Triumph Valley does a similar version), the execution here turns it into something entirely new, and offers a glimpse at how this local spot stands a chance at competing with its big international neighbors.