When Chuck’s Hop Shop announced its Seward Park location inside Third Place Books, the restaurant component was a giant TBD. Now it appears the beer dynamo has taken on a partner with serious bagel bona fides and similar community roots in North Seattle.
Zylberschtein’s, the Pinehurst deli and bakery, will open Muri’s in the central restaurant area of the multilevel space. Owner Josh Grunig said in a newsletter and social dispatch that Muri’s will be a Kosher dairy restaurant and parve bakery.
This will be Grunig’s first foray into Kosher fare. “It has always been of deep fascination and interest to me,” he writes in the official announcement. “I didn’t grow up this way. But I see the historical ties to the Jewish diaspora and the retention of culinary laws baked into them.”
Grunig’s been studying up on Kosher and parve stipulations, yet he can still break it down in the simplest of terms: According to Kosher standards, “You can only take one thing from the cow. If you take the dairy, you can’t eat the meat.” Obviously Muri goes the dairy route, which means the menu will skew vegetarian, plus non-shellfish seafood. The parve bakery, a separate operation within Muri’s, makes food sans dairy, so users can consume the results with, say, either cheese or brisket. For instance, Zylberschtein’s makes challah with butter, while a version here might use oil instead.
Per his official announcement, struggling to keep a business viable during the depths of Covid shutdowns prompted a lot of reflection for Grunig, and re-evaluating previously held beliefs like going it alone versus taking on a business partner. He first met Chuck’s owner Chuck Shin when he operated his Pocket popup bakery across the street from Chuck’s Central District location, exchanging leftover pastries for growlers at the end of the day. Shin’s side of the business will handle all operations outside the kitchen.
Muri’s will serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, according to the Indiegogo page. Grunig will draw from family recipes, as well as dishes from across the Jewish diaspora for a menu modeled after East Coast kosher dairy delis: tuna melts, challah grilled cheese, bialys, whitefish salad, soup, and of course, plenty of bagels.
Pairing a Jewish deli–styled setup with a beer bar isn’t exactly common, but Grunig’s planning an IPA-friendly bar menu filled with things like Israeli couscous arancini and carrot fritters with dukkah dipping sauce.
The upshot: two Seattle favorites creating a space particular to their talents, rather than stamped from the cookie cutter school of bar and restaurant design (inside a bookstore, no less). More details as we have them, but you can follow Chuck’s or Zylberschtein’s on Instagram for more details. Muri’s could open as early as January 2022, if funding allows.