Thanks for the ice cream, buddy.

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“One of my favorite phrases is ‘Jack of all trades, master of none,’” Timmermeister laughed by phone last week. “I am good at a lot of things, but I hire people who are better than me. The people I’ve hired to be cheesemakers are much better than I am. Much, much better than I am. My attention span is short. I have a hard time staring at a vat of milk.”

“The story of Kurt Farm Shop is: I own the farm, I own the cows, I own the pasture, we milk the cows, we make all the cheese and ice cream, it’s country meets city, it’s genuine. It’s not scripted. I’m constantly looking for integrity, and I look for it in restaurants. Honestly, I’ll even take integrity over quality. Sometimes I go to Ping’s for dumplings over Din Tai Fung, even though it’s not as good. It’s funky and it’s not University Village and it’s grandma cleaning up and grandpa serving you…and that’s the most important thing for me.”

“We have the cows that make great milk and great cream, and I think people are looking for that. I’m not going to have 10 Kurt Farm Shops all over town, or expand to San Francisco or LA; that’s not going to happen. I’m waiting for the day that Seattle and this whole country has a rebound from the Ethans and the Toms, who own [a bunch of] restaurants and consider that a positive. For one thing it’s hard for the newcomers coming in who have to compete with those machines.”

“I’m also waiting for the small-plate thing to be done. I want a steak with a baked potato and a green salad. You see the parodies, four people at a table sharing these tiny little plates…I can’t do it anymore. It’s not even enough to give me a flavor in my mouth. I want a big roast chicken in a steel pan.”

“Best thing I’ve ever done? I think the courtyard at the second Septieme…I think that’s the best thing I’ve ever done. Chophouse Row is very similar. It’s beautiful. And it’s got that same public-private atmosphere.”