For this year’s Best Restaurants issue I chose the ten best places to make a name for themselves this past year.

Boy, was I surprised.

It’s not that the field was unusual. Possibilities included a hotel restaurant downtown. A venture (actually, several) from a well-known chef. A beautiful pris-fixe multi-course destination. A beloved neighborhood treasure.

I chose none of those.

Go figure that the ones clocking in as most impressive were not the ones I set out expecting would be the biggest wows—probably because they occupied a more downmarket place on the spectrum. Think barbecue, fish and chips, pizza. A bar. A bottleshop!

The soul of 2014 resided in joints like these, that got the basics right. See which places they are in our November issue, hot off the presses.