MILES JAMES’S FRIENDLY FREMONT BUTCHER SHOP AND SAUSAGE STOP IS A CHARCUTERIE, BUT DON’T GO TELLING the customers who relish its down-to-earth echoes of 1940s Brooklyn. “You want those chickens whole or you want me to break ’em down?” the affable butcher asks one buyer, who decides he’d rather have them in the form of takeout chicken pot pies. No problem. Since he has only 14 seats in the place, James recently bolstered his dinner program with plenty of to-go entrees. (The wise know to pick up a pate or terrine at the same time.) The seasoned chef (Campagne, Crémant) has also added a few simple eat-in entrees per night: braised lamb shank stew with red wine and potatoes gratin, or maybe the best thick-cut, crisp-crusted steak frites in the city, or—if he’s not too busy and you’re living under a lucky star—a juicy something you spy in his butcher case. But the real meat of the matter here is sausages, stunning ones, which James once peddled from his Georgetown cart, Seattle Sausage Company, and now serves as franks and brats and Polishes in all their hand-spiced glory, with sauerkraut and mustard inside flaky buns. Get them starting at 11am and enjoy them with Rainier beer or Mexican Coke, under the watchful portrait of James’s grandmother Dot or in full mesmerizing view of the meat grinder working its magic.
LET'S TAKE THIS OUTSIDE
07/23/2021 By Allecia Vermillion