Soup dumplings

Does this Crosscut article about Din Tai Fung and its much-discussed soup dumplings veer into the territory of unseemly overgeneralization? That’s the chatter on Twitter. “A Chinese restaurant that’s nothing like you would expect” contrasts the cleanliness and upscale ambiance at DTF with what the author perceives as the Chinese food we are accustomed to in America.

Here’s one possibly contentious quote:

Chinese restaurants in America have come to mean certain things: harsh lighting, low ceilings, garish carpeting, vinyl chairs, indifferent if not curt service, poor ventilation that allows the smells of the kitchen to pervade the dining room (both a welcome memory and a lingering annoyance once the scent has followed you home on your clothes), and the cacophony of voices speaking in unknowable syllables.

And another that was called out, in part, on Twitter:

Prepared with pleasing uniformity, far from fancy, Chinese food has come to represent low-end dining in the best possible way. It carries a certain comfortable predictability. Like McDonald’s, a Chinese restaurant can be relied upon to deliver the same food no matter where you eat it.


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