Critic’s Notebook

Best Dishes of 2013 Countdown #8: The Old Sage

Roasted and Raw Gourds

By Kathryn Robinson December 20, 2013

The Old Sage: Roasted and Raw Gourds

The latest from the prolific Brian McCracken and Dana Tough (Spur, Tavern Law, the Coterie Room), the Old Sage is a gastropub of real pretension; precious at times with things like lavender-smoked pork cheeks and $40 drams of single-malt scotch. But precious can also mean a gorgeously composed plate of roasted and raw gourds, where smoky roasted squash, curled cuke slices, and chunks of compressed watermelon come masterfully accented with mint leaves, dollops of yogurt, and Calabrian chili. A beautiful dish in every sense of the word.

Here are more of my favorite dishes of 2013


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