The crab roll that built this casual seafood newcomer in Fremont.

This week, the handsome Cedar Speedster building in Fremont (the one that’s also home to Revel) gets a new occupant that’s more about water than trees. Local Tide opens for takeout August 6 with a menu that presents serious seafood ambitions with more of a dockside vibe.

Chef Victor Steinbrueck debuted Local Tide a few years back as a popup at Pike Place Market, fitting considering the park just to its north is named for his grandfather, the architect instrumental in preserving Pike Place Market from the urban renewal wrecking ball in the 1970s. Now the younger Steinbrueck's dungeness crab rolls—classic split-top rolls heaped with crabmeat—have a permanent home in this striking angular space at 401 N 36th Street, with a window looking into neighboring Aslan Brewing.

Local Tide cracks its crustaceans in house to fill those crab rolls, which is to say—quantities are limited. The restaurant will make 30 per day for its first three days of business, then the sandwich settles into weekend-only status. It’s fairly easy to console yourself with a rockfish banh mi, shrimp toast, or the niçoise-like house salad made with Alaskan sockeye. Steinbrueck is zealous about his seafood sourcing, working with local fishers he knows, and avoiding anything farmed. Given the proximity to Seattle's Aslan outpost, great beer is a reasonable expectation. Keep tabs on all things Local Tide on the restaurant's website and Instagram.

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