Chef Brian Clevenger sent word recently that May 28 would be the first official day of business for his den of handmade pasta at 1126 34th Ave, near Union on Madrona's main drag. But, as these things go, Vendemmia has been softly open all week, getting the hang of the customer flow.

As promised, the menu is to the point—a focused list of pastas, starters that make much of the season's vegetables, and a few meat and fish entrees. The room is similarly uncluttered—spartan, even—but when I stopped in for a glass of wine with a friend last night, the large windows were open to the warm evening, and families and couples filled the tables and the seats at the small bar. (Note: No kids at the bar; duh.)

The open galley kitchen is the first thing you see coming through Vendemmia's doors. Clevenger wanted to be able to greet every diner personally, but I'm more excited about the five-seat chef's counter here. Lay down $50, and Clevenger will come up with a custom menu, usually about four courses.

It's fair to say Clevenger knows pasta. His resume includes working in the kitchen of San Francisco restaurant Delfina, plus head chef roles at Ethan Stowell's Tavolàta and Staple and Fancy. Stowell clearly isn't too bent out of shape that Clevenger opened his own restaurant right down the street from his former boss's bistro, Red Cow: The last time I saw Stowell, he told me Clevenger is mightily talented and scolded me for not including him in this year's class of Next Hot Chefs. (For the record, this honor goes to cooks and chefs who don't own their own restaurant.)

The Vendemmia website has hours, a sample menu, and probably some additional details in the near future.