Pan-seared Scallops with Beluga Lentils at Restaurant Bea

 This grandma-charming neighborhood restaurant, Restaurant Bea in Madrona, has seen a chef change in its short tenure, but one constant in the kitchen has been its way with gentle stewy dishes: braised rabbit with herb spaetzle, black cod over black-eyed peas and brown butter.

Scallops often appear in some permutation, and my favorite was a recent plate of four of them, crisp-seared, over beluga lentils, creamy celeriac puree, tart pickled shallots, and roasted cauliflower. Varying textures expressing a full range of savories, this dish combined culinary comfort and culinary intelligence in a winning way.