Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Lecosho Porchetta

By Kathryn Robinson December 12, 2011

‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#10 When Lecosho opened on the Harbor Steps, owner Matt Janke was all about pork (Lecosho means pig in Chinook), and offered it in numerous incarnations on a notably numster menu. One of them in particular kind of made me lose my mind. And I quote, from the March issue of Seattle Met: "The stunner among the pork dishes was the Lecosho porchetta, a glistening slice of pork tenderloin-stuffed pork belly, encrusted with herbs, over a shallow bed of rustic, fragrant white bean and baby turnip ragout. It’s a rare thing to know from bite one that a dish is destined to become a house signature, if not a city-wide all-star, but this one, with its vivid seasonings and satisfying meatiness, screams its legendary status." At lunchtime they sometimes jam that same juicy meat into a grilled ciabatta roll with plenty of aioli, guaranteeing more fun than one should really be allowed before nightfall.

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