Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Cuoco Bistecca

By Kathryn Robinson December 21, 2011

Photo: Sarah Flotard, courtesy Cuoco.

‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#3 No disrespect to the pasta at Tom Douglas’s South Lake Union pasta house, Cuoco, that its best dish is a steak—the pasta’s plenty good, but the bistecca is great. It’s dry-aged Washington rib steak, served (in two sizes) on a huge platter of grilled bread salad. As I wrote in our August issue: “Good bitter greens and roasted peppers and tender spring onions conspired with the rib steak—served in smoky, gloriously marbled slices—and Tuscan bread and curls of fine Parmesan to produce a major romp for the palate.” A brilliant earthy idea, brought off flawlessly by pros. Bravo Cuoco.

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