“It’s new to the menu, but it’s not a new thought,” says Donna Moodie of the True Burger, the Painted Hills patty she just started serving at Marjorie. She’s thought about doing a burger for years (five, in fact), but the chefs she was working with were reluctant.
You see, burgers are such crowd favorites they tend to outshine other, more signature offerings—how many times have you sat at a table, glanced at the menu, and decided, “I’ll have the burger.” But in new chef Paul Hyman Moodie found her first cohort. (The man likes meat: tattooed on his forearm is “charcuterie,” big and black.)
They did their research but it didn’t take long to pin the winning recipe. “When we started taste testing, we were like, ’That’s it,’” she says of the beefwich, ground in-house and served on a bun from Columbia City Bakery. Naturally, pommes frites come on the side.
Perhaps to impede too many patrons from rebuffing Hyman’s original handiwork, only ten are available each night—and they’ve been a hit, says Moodie.