Esquire’s 2011 Best Bars package is out, and only one Seattle bar made it.

That bar is Sambar.

The other Washington bar included: the Geoduck Tavern in Brinnon, which the magazine describes as a “rustic paradise.”

In what has become something of a theme in the culinary contests this year, Portland trounced us. Three of its bars were listed: The Horse Brass Pub, Clyde Common, and Beaker and Flask.

The intro to the piece explains that Esquire focused on new bars:

Over the last five years, we have celebrated bars all over the country. Mostly well-established places. A hall of fame, really. This year, we’re doing it differently. New places. Most less than two years old. Which is trickier than it might sound. So many bars come and go. Or are uninteresting. Or are “mixology” places that don’t know what they’re doing exactly. The places on this list, we vouch for. And we think they’ll stick around.

I love that the editors went new, because now that so many other national pubs have followed in Esquire’s footsteps and put out bar lists, the same-old-same-old factor is in full effect. We don’t need another list of America’s top bars that includes zero surprises.

On the other hand, Sambar is not new. Nor are many of the bars on the list. It is chockful of usual suspects—PDT, Pegu Club, Bourbon & Branch, etc and so on. But the thing is, it has to be. This is supposed to be a list of the best bars in America, and these bars give weight and credibility to the list so that the Geoduck Taverns of this world might also get a mention.

Seattlest published a list of local bars that should be in Esquire’s feature. I like the hometown pride, and I also like the idea. But I find myself disinclined to agree—and not just with the bar picks. These lists aren’t scientific, but they aren’t random either. The way that bars position themselves for inclusion is by drawing significant buzz to motivate the publication (or, sometimes, a local stringer for the pub) to visit them and then by wowing the visitor by way of drinks, service, and ambiance. They have to make it happen for themselves.

You know, like Zig Zag does, we Seattleites always say. Which makes it all the more interesting that Zig Zag isn’t on this list.