Order and be happy: The cheese curds at Captain Blacks.

As Nosh Pit’s resident cheesehead (born-and-bred Wisconsinite, I am, and true to stereotypes, cheese is often on the mind), I’m going to go ahead and state a bold claim: Captain Blacks makes the most-gooey-most-delicious cheese curds out there.

At Capitol Hill’s nautical-themed Blacks, the curds come by the dozen or so; some are large (get out the fork), others you can toss in your mouth like popcorn shrimp. Curds really are hard to screw up—they’re deep-fried balls of cheese—so what sets apart Blacks’s Beecher’s balls? The batter.

Unlike at some joints where the batter is a thick, mozzarella-stick skin, the wise Captain goes for a just-so fry job, creating just enough satisfactory crunch—you still get that crackly sensation upon first bite. See those bubbly crevices where pockets of cheese are oozing out? Yeah, you don’t find that too often elsewhere. Pull one apart and the perfect dredge almost dissolves into the gloppy mass underneath.

That there dipping sauce is a Mexi-flavored one. It’s tasty way to up the richness even more (read: do partake).

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