When people talk about Samurai Noodle, they talk about the tonkotsu. A teeming bowl of long-simmered pork broth, tonkotsu is Japanese ramen cooked the way you want it—soft, medium, al dente. Nestled among the noodles is ultra-tender pork, green onion, and black mushrooms. You can get it out of two storefronts: one next to Uwajimaya, and the other on the Ave, the newer of the pair. Dine in and it’s $6.75; grab-and-go and it’s $4.95.

But enough about the tonk. Let’s talk up another item of note: the chile green onion bowl. This one’s made with a chicken broth, and like almost all Samurai servings is laden with pork. Bamboo supplants mushrooms, and a generous helping of onion wedges freshens up the mix. That blood-red broth is a good indicator of the kick that’s to come with each spoonful, but if the spicy sesame oil isn’t doing the job, red chile flakes await at the end of the table. (Note: water pitchers do not.) Either way, prudent taste bud softies will steer clear of this $8 dish.

Oh, and don’t forget to get sloppy—slurping the noodles is Japanese custom.