Hometown Pride

Anchovies and Olives Among Bon Appétit’s Best New Restaurants

Ethan Stowell’s third fourth establishment chalks up another national accolade.

By Christopher Werner August 18, 2010

Capitol Hill’s Anchovies and Olives: a national favorite. Photo: courtesy Geoffrey Smith

Lately, when it comes to Ethan Stowell, the conversation inevitably orbits around Staple and Fancy Mercantile, his just-opened Ballard restaurant. But it’s his previous venture, the stunner Anchovies and Olives, that today gives us cause to talk up the Seattle toque.

Stowell’s third fourth establishment (the since-departed Union, How to Cook a Wolf, and Tavolàta came first) is among Bon Appétit‘s "10 Best New Restaurants in America," a list released in the AM of August 18. In its description, the glossy lauds Stowell’s geoduck crudo, mackerel, and seared prawn preparations, and declares: In a city full of outstanding seafood restaurants, Anchovies & Olives is arguably the best. "Less is more" seems to be the theme here—from the 40-seat space (with a beautiful open kitchen) to the pared-down menu that’s divided into two sections: crudo and plates (entrees). What’s more, nothing is priced over $16.

This isn’t the first time A & O has been favored by far-flung critics. GQ ’s Alan Richman deemed it among the nation’s 10 finest to open in 2009, and in February Anchovies was named a James Beard semifinalist for best newbie (and Stowell a finalist for Best Chef Northwest).

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