Behold the fair-stemmed wine glass. Truly a thing of beauty.
Photo: Sur La Table

There’s a lot to love about Smith, especially now that it seems to have worked out the kitchen kinks. The decor is a stroke of genius: cozy as a pint of Guinness in winter, open-aired and charming in summer. The staff is always really nice and…oh hell, no one around these parts needs me to sing its praises—the place is jumping every night of the week. Which is party why I feel comfortable expressing this one little complaint.

Smith: Can you please stop serving wine in juice glasses? I swear to God it takes that slight, lovely hit of carbonation right out of the vinho verde, and the joy of drinking wine right out of the dining experience.

I’ll extend this request also to Tutta Bella. Tutta is, I’m afraid, not bella when the wine arrives in a rocks glass! I know that serving table wine in juice glasses is an Italian trattoria convention and the idea here is to be unpretentious and of the people and so forth. But for one thing, those table wines don’t cost $8 a glass. And for another, just because they do it in Italy doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. Remember Fascism? I say let’s just import the amazing olive oil and leisurely dining style and leave the juice glasses across the pond. And Smith isn’t even an Italian restaurant (neither are you, cousin Oddfellows.) Do they eschew stemware at oldey English pubs too?

Stemless tumblers, it must be admitted, have become an accepted vessel among Reidel-junkie wine drinkers and I can sort of accept that. I guess. At least they are designed to preserve the flavors and aromas of the wine. But, I dunno. Am I alone on this juice glass thing?

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