For years people have been raving about Naan-n-Curry in Renton. I finally found myself down there with an appetite. Beautiful thing.

It’s North Indian food, prepared by a Pakistani chef, whom you can spy working diligently through the kitchen pass-through. He made us a sumptuous plate of mughlai korma, that very rich almond sauce that here was the texture of velvet. Our tandoori chicken wasn’t dry (it’s always dry!), and was served with a yogurt-garlic sauce and a sweet plum sauce that the kids adored. Our naan was plump and fleshy, richly garlicky. The star ratings were meaningful.

And the setting is noble: a storefront, prettily appointed with Indian decorations amid walls the color of dark curry. The place serves all halal food (the Islamic equivalent to Jewish kosher), so plenty of observant Muslims in their traditional hijab were enjoying a cook’s night off.

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