Is it the best news you’ve heard all day or the worst, that the venerable Rover’s is firing up brunch service starting this Sunday, April 5?

Best because…OMG, who wouldn’t want to bury their face in Thierry Rautureau’s apple beignets with nectarine compote, or strawberry-orange brioche French toast, or scrambled eggs with lime creme fraiche and Osetra caviar, or Hudson Valley foie-gras with pear-thyme bread pudding and pear chutney? I mean…really? Who?

If you’re thinking “Not me, buster,” make a note that brunch will happen every Sunday from 10am to 2pm as an a-la-carte or multi-course affair (the latter priced at $25 for two courses and $35 for three, wine pairings extra).

Of course when a beloved institution like Rover’s increases its hours—did I mention it’s now open Sunday for dinners too?—it can be read as yet another dispiriting sign of the times.

If only bad news were always this great.