Worth every C-note. Thierry Rautureau, the impish owner-chef of this pretty house-restaurant in Madison Valley, brings the nages, infusions, medallions, and confits of his native France to Seattle palates—preparing them as close to flawlessly as happens in this town, then plating them with the eye of an artist. (No chef in Seattle is as enamored of sauce dots.) You may order à la carte—sampling-size portions only, from about $14 to $22—but you’ll be much more satisfied with the five- or eight-course extravaganza, featuring dishes for which words can’t quite do justice—diver scallops with foie gras and baby turnips, Maine lobster with roasted beets and sea urchin roe. Some of the city’s best servers all conspire to create as close to a casual vibe as one could achieve within an enclave of Rover’s stature.