IT AIN’T LAVERNE AND SHIRLEY’S bowling alley. In seductively low light, neon gleams, strobes flash, music pulses. Video images light up huge screens at the end of every lane. Between shots, bowlers watch from powder-blue leather sofas, munching lime shrimp skewers and turkey-brie sandwiches and swilling cocktails or $90 bottles of port. If it all appears a little high-ticket for bowling—lanes on weekend evenings go for $75 an hour—it’s none too high-ticket for Bellevue, which owners of this national chain recently added (alongside Vegas, Miami, and Hollywood) to their list of 17 locales. Besides, befitting the bowling schtick, a fun lowbrow streak bubbles just under the place’s glossy surface: They do kids’ birthday parties (only before 8pm, when the place goes adults only), they serve fried mac and cheese balls, and they’ve got good old Bud Light in bottles. Steeeee-rike!