In contrast to the novelties now trending in Seattle dining stands the lovely Pomerol, the latest from prolific continental classicist Vuong Loc. From his erstwhile Portage on Queen Anne he’s brought an emphasis on archetypal French cuisine; from his dearly departed June in Madrona a reverence for meats—achieved at Pomerol on a wood-fired grill. The results are highly composed plates of unapologetically traditional fare—glistening short ribs over cauliflower puree with shallot confit, slices of lamb leg on an anise-fennel-carrot braise, moist pan-roasted chicken in a lush sherry sauce—executed with a seasoned hand and near-perfect consistency. (And when it isn’t, as in a tragically overcooked starter of chili-rubbed octopus—it’s graciously addressed on the bill.)

Service on our visit was a little green and stilted, but all in all, the mood is high and the vibe informal in this sleek and modern and crisp-edged room, which looks like Fremont but cooks like France. Desserts are busy and delectable; get ready for the breezy back deck, which will be most pleasant in, oh…about six months.

Pomerol 
127 N 36th St, Fremont 
206-632-0135; pomerolrestaurant.com
 $$$ 


This review appeared in the November 2014 issue of Seattle Met magazine.

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