When Thackeray opened five months ago, Wallingford not only got a restaurant named after the author of the 19th-century novel Vanity Fair, but a chef with culinary cachet from the beloved Purple Café & Wine Bar as Sous and Executive Chef. After spending more than eight years at the venerable institution—lauded for its food as well as its superb wine program—chef Jon Langley was ready to make a mark of his own, and the Heavy Restaurant Group was more than happy to give him the space and freedom to do it.

 Thackeray employs a rich medley of textiles for its seating areas, giving different parts of the room their own vibe: patinaed mirrors at the bar and a literary den of a lounge complete with bookshelves, throw rugs, and wingback chairs. Even the lighting is unique, with antique sconces sourced from all over the country dotting the walls. There’s warmth from the fabrics and the brass, with a bit of industrial edge, as well. The food follows naturally from the diverse interior, with dishes drawing on Lebanese and Ethiopian influences, among others. As Langley puts it, “I’ve been using the whole spice trade route, from the South of France to southern Italy and the Middle East…up into the Black Sea a little bit and into North Africa.”

 Longtime fans of his food at Purple, and now at Thackeray, can taste Langley’s new approach at FareStart’s upcoming Guest Chef Night dinner, where he’ll lead students in creating a sure-to-be memorable meal. He’s been working with the nonprofit—which provides culinary and life-skills training to students who have dealt with everything from poverty and homelessness to drug and alcohol addiction—for three years, and it’s of personal significance to him as he’s in recovery himself. “Seeing those students come from a place that was even harder than where I came from,” he says, “to seeing them get jobs—it’s really amazing.”

 Here’s what Langley had to say about FareStart, launching a new restaurant, and what’s on the menu for his third Guest Chef Night dinner.

 Do you think people want a menu that gives them a variety of flavors and foods, rather than seeking out one ethnic cuisine at a time?

Totally. My philosophy is that in Seattle, it’s not just smoked salmon and chowder like it was before. We’ve evolved and have people from all these different backgrounds here. So I want to make simple, good food, but that’s more in tune with different flavors. I’m not using different ingredients, but maybe a spice blend you’ve never tried before.

 How does it feel coming from Purple, which has such a long and stellar reputation, to a new restaurant?

At Purple in Seattle, we have to have a lot more approachable items. But [at Thackeray], because it’s a new concept, we have a little more wiggle room. We’re still young and not dialed in here. We can go further out on a limb. But, ultimately, our restaurant group is all about the culture, the family, and the learning experience. I have guys working for me now who worked for me at Purple. We try to promote from within. 

 What’s your favorite dish on the menu at Thackeray?

I think the chicken wings with the spiced honey. They’re only available after 4 p.m. every day. You can’t even get them at happy hour. But they’re worth the wait. They’ve been compared to the wings at Pok Pok, which I consider a compliment. On the brunch menu, it’s the shakshouka, a North African baked-egg dish with spicy tomato sauce and feta with grilled bread.

What is your favorite FareStart experience or memory? 

The whole thing for me; it’s a little bit personal. I’ve been in recovery for five years, so seeing the program in action is super rewarding. I’ve got one of the guys [who graduated from FareStart] working for me now at Thackeray.

What do you want the FareStart students to learn from you? 

I think the trick is trying to make it as realistic as possible for the real world, what it’s like to work an actual line. The first time I did a dinner [at FareStart] I was a little too ambitious. I didn’t do any prep beforehand—we did it all there—so it was a little crazy. The last two times I’ve used a bit more foresight, and I’m focused more on teaching them techniques, actually cooking. 

What dishes will you be cooking for the dinner? 
We’re definitely featuring some spring radishes. There are so many varieties available now, and the diversity of the radish is highly unrecognized. There’s going to be radishes with grilled bread and fresh sheep’s milk cheese. It’s a play on the classic French radishes and butter, but we’re using the cheese instead of the butter. The entree is going to be a grilled chicken thigh with some sort of interesting rub on it, served with a cracked-wheat and herb salad. For dessert, we’re going to serve Thackeray’s homemade push pops, Spumoni-flavored. During the summer, since we’re right in the middle of downtown Wallingford, we’re going to sell them on the street in front of the restaurant.

Chef Langley’s dinner at FareStart is on May 4^th at 5:30. Dinner is $29.95. Click here for more information and to buy tickets.