It's an anomaly all right: A 1910 Italian stonemason's cottage in industrial Georgetown—wedged hard between a railroad track and an I-5 exit, with planes roaring overhead from Boeing Field—that struck wunderkind chef (the Herbfarm, Sitka and Spruce) Matthew Dillon as just the place to contain his restless new vision: a community center for foodies. So there are picnics and chef demos and fundraisers—but mostly, there are dinners, stunning ones, served four or five times a week (see Web site for schedule) and served family style around long tables in multiple courses, with or without matching wines. All in a room that imparts an Old World dreaminess (an unupholstered—thus loud—Old World dreaminess), arched windows to stucco walls. Dillon's sources are as impeccable as his culinary imagination, so everything from his shellfish salad to his black cod with treviso greens is microseasonally fresh and innovatively conceived. All in all, it's much more dinner party than restaurant, and if it's a little odd for a regular joe, it's every food snob's dream.