From the seasonally and artisanally grandiose imagination of Kurt Beecher Dammeier (Bennett’s, Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, Pasta and Co., Liam’s) comes a beautiful rendition of two timeworn conceits: loud and buzzy window-clad happy hour emporium with a nosh menu at street level; hushed and dusky black leather-banquette lair downstairs for Wagyu steaks, replete with the private rooms and waiters in black and white uniforms essential to a windowless steakhouse. Both rooms have their predictable charms (upstairs Beecher’s mac and cheese, a terrific perfumey steak tartare; downstairs beef, beef, beef) that will please diners who prize satisfaction over inspiration—but may deflate culinary adventurers.