A cozy 18-seater in Phinney Ridge is old-school Seattle bootstrapping in the utmost. Chef and owner Mark Schroder has outfitted a tiny space with a custom wood-fired grill and produced a worthy dining destination inside a former sandwich shop. His dishes flit between midwestern upbringing and Korean-inflected training. Take the Opus Feast, an operatic family-style parade of six or so courses that might start with pork jerky and two slices of lamb spam touched with nori and a salad of lacinato kale, pear, and peanut-chili relish, a beautifully tart acid trip. Then come little bowls of banchan with a farmers market fanboy flair. The restaurant’s whole-animal program proves the grill game here is strong, from flame-licked half chicken with a sticky-tangy-sweet malt-vinegar caramel to a slap-yourself-good pork belly.