In a skinny, high-ceilinged slot in the techie thickets of Pioneer Square, brick walls and midcentury minimalist lighting telegraph worldly chic. But no more than the food of Nirmal Monteiro, a household name in Mumbai known for his mastery of Indian cuisines from the prawn curries of Bengal to the street food of Mumbai to the coconut seafood of the south. The uninitiated might not taste the distinctions that Indians praise and crowd the place for—his mastery of dishes from multiple regions, his subtle layerings of flavor (some will say not spicy enough), his innovative specials. Tandoori steak anyone? Frontman Oliver Bangera roams and greets like he owns the place. Which he does.