Back in 1985, Bruce Naftaly opened Le Gourmand and edged the term Northwest cuisine into our lexicon. All these years later, you’ll find him in Chophouse Row, serving brunch, lunch, and dinner dishes far more casual, if no less careful than in the era of Le Gourmand. The lunchtime soup menu unites Bruce’s knack for deep flavors and wife Sara’s elegantly sturdy bread; roasted root vegetables with creme fraiche or chicken with cabbage, pork belly, and ham likewise make a midday appearance. Dinner, however, more closely resembles the menu at Le Gourmand. Some dishes echo old favorites, and Bruce’s famed French sauces are, as ever, an infinity loop of savory flavor notes.