Longtime culinary icon Bruce Naftaly (of the famed Le Gourmand) has gone more casual but no less careful in his Chophouse Row lunch and brunch spot, now open for dinners too. The lunchtime soup menu unites Bruce’s saucier knack for deep flavors and wife Sara’s elegantly sturdy bread; the seasonal seafood soup is a Little Mermaid roll call of everything under the sea that’s made it into your bowl—salmon, clams, mussels, and more in a balanced briny broth. Roasted root vegetables with crème fraiche or chicken with cabbage, pork belly, and ham likewise make a midday appearance. Dinner, however, more closely resembles the menu at Le Gourmand. Some dishes echo old favorites, and Bruce’s famed French sauces are, as ever, an infinity loop of savory flavor notes.