This Fremont restaurant departs the schools of other wood-fired, seafood Pacific Northwest spots with a simple measure of focus: South and Central American flavors. Citrus splashes everywhere—ceviches, a bitter-bright endive and orange salad—punctuated by rich flourishes, like mussels mounted in aji amarillo on top of ideally buttery squares of Seawolf sourdough toast. All of it’s an excellent match for the tiny space’s sparkling blue tile and ample flames, a grill inside and a firepit outside.